Sardine Run

From below come the dolphins, the fast and agile common dolphins supported by their slower and bigger cousins, the bottlenose dolphins squeaking and launching into the air and herding the sardine shoals into bait balls.

Then come the sharks – copper sharks, ragged tooth sharks, tiger sharks and, of course, the great white shark shovelling down dozens of sardines with every gulp.

On the fringes of this incredible activity are the majestic whales, the humpback, minke, Bryde’s, southern right and the killer whale.

Loading large twin-outboard zodiacs with photo and video equipment, snacks and drinks, snorkellers and scuba divers head out in the early light to spend the day searching the sea for sardines and predator activity. Arial spotters in micro lights buzz above the waves keeping radio contact with the boat skipper. The action is not for the feint-hearted and days can be long, hard and hot. Seas can be smooth or rough and the action is never to be guaranteed but when we find it, our blood turns to pure adrenalin.

Divers and snorkellers prepare dive gear and underwater cameras. At the skipper’s command they fall overboard into the middle of the action. The sardine shoal is so thick it blocks out the light. As we are enveloped by the swarm all we can hear is the chattering of dolphins and the deep grunts of whales. Bigger shapes move through the shoal – sharks – but they are totally focussed on the sardines and don’t bother us. Pure, bucket-list dive holiday magic!

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